I finished my Minoru! I only started it two years ago, hah. I think this must be my second longest unfinished object ever (but these mittens still win). I realized I would have way too many pictures in one post, so the “outfit” ones are here, and I’ll do a second post with detail shots and more construction notes.
Fabric: Denim fabric with some stretch in it. Mom bought it for me one Christmas specifically to make this jacket, from her local fabric store. The purple is actually the wrong side of this fabric! It is much more interesting than the real right side, which was just a duller dark dark blue with a hint of purple in it.
Pattern: Minoru jacket from Sewaholic.
Techniques: Separating zipper, patch inverted pleat pockets, fully lined, interlining, piping, hanging loop.
I finished this jacket just in time for our trip to the Netherlands last weekend, and made use of the beautiful city of Haarlem (ooh, go there if you can) as the backdrop. The dutch, in my limited experience, are open and have a wry (but friendly) sense of humor. We got some looks doing this photoshoot on the bridge, but in Norway, people would have tried not too look too much and keep to themselves. In Haarlem however, I got several friendly comments from the people biking by – “smile!” and “take a picture of me too!”. It was pretty funny!
This is a very comfortable jacket. I meant for this to be a winter jacket, so I underlined the lining (minus the sleeves) with a wool flannel, so the core of the jacket is warm. It was a perfect weight for the weather we were having, between zero and 7°C (that’d be in the 30s and 40s for you Fahrenheiters). It’s a little heavy, being made from denim and lined with wool – not something I noticed with it on, but it was noticeable while carrying it around in museums.
Seeing the pictures I have a few things I’d fix for a potential next jacket, fit-wise. It’s a little baggy in the back above the waist, so I think a swayback adjustment would be in order. Also, I did a FBA of 2″ total, and I think I could have gotten away without it. It’s not a fitted garment like a dress could be, and the jacket is a little roomier in the chest than it needs to. For a next jacket I think I will extend the waist elastic wrap around almost to the front plackets so it looks a little less flat from the front. I like waist definition!
The hood is usually tucked away inside the collar, and I like the structure it gives the collar. Overall my choice of fabric is maybe a little too heavy to both line and tuck away, so the hood ends up a little bulky, but not unmanageable. I lined the hood as well, since I liked the thought of having a pop of color there, and thought it would be more comfortable against the skin.
I was a little particular when getting zippers, and ended up prioritizing color instead of correct length. Both zippers are actually too short. It’s not a big deal with the main zipper, especially since I have a zipperguard that visually fills the space, but the hood zipper actually needs to be the length specified! I ended up having to pleat a section of the hood to allow it to lie nicely when it is in use. Oops. Don’t do that. Other than that, the hood comes out of the collar easily enough, but I might have to retrofit it with a cord and pullstops – it was a little windy the day we took these pictures and the hood blew off my head several times from being too wide I think.
I love the color of this jacket. I love that it is lightly rainproof (from a round in the washer with Nikwax), I love the professional look from all the topstitching. Living in rainy Bergen means that you often have to choose practical outerwear over stylish outerwear, so most of all I love that I have a utilitarian jacket I can wear in cold or rainy weather but still makes me look pulled together.
Alright, come back in a few days for part 2!