Monthly Archives: February 2011

collection progress: in pieces

On this grey Sunday, with a cold  I’m trying to eradicate, I figured I’d show you how I’m doing on my final senior fashion design project.

Even though we’re well into the second (and last semester) where we make everything, I haven’t actually completed much. The patternmaking and sourcing takes quite a long while; by the time you’re ready to start sewing, you already have your fabric, your pattern, and every thing goes together quite quickly. I guess what I mean to say is that sometimes the actual sewing or creating part doesn’t take all that long, but the preparations that makes it a breeze? That’s the time-consuming part!

My only finished garment so far, a cotton twill vest with mitered dupioni silk bias binding.

A wool coat and a pair of wool flannel pants – in the early stages of construction.

A hand-knit jacket, still in pieces.

Swatches for a lace-weight knit top.

This silk gauze blouse has been living on my dining table for… ehm, three weeks now. I’m pleating the fabric, and it’s just so delicate that I don’t want to move it until I have to!

I hope you’ve enjoyed these little glimpses of a large project in process! I should start having some more completed garments soon, and that’ll be encouraging and exciting!

I ♥ bookbinding class

I’ve long been fascinated with books – the tactile nature of them; the feel of the pages, the glimpses of thread in the creases, the smell, the corners of the cover – either crisp and covered with glossy paper, or worn and frayed cloth, threads parting to show the color of the stiff paper underneath. Maybe it was because the old books and manuscripts that hung around in our house as part of my dad’s research work, or the Nancy Drew books from my mom’s childhood I found at my grandfather’s house. Maybe it was the books in my grade school library I couldn’t get through fast enough, or the 3 years of new books every semester in junior high (oh, the smell of new books! I love sticking my nose in a new book and inhaling the smell).

A dear friend shared what she learned at her folk-high-school one year – making a book from scratch. Complete with a spine, and strips of cloths holding the folded sheets of paper together, sewing, and fabric-covered covers. I was so excited! Ever since, I’ve been longing to take a proper book-binding class, and learn first hand about the art of creating books.

I finally got that chance this semester, and I knew I was going to love this class when the teacher taught us how to do a pamphlet binding – by having us put together the syllabus for the course!

The pamphlet style of binding is an easy way of binding, and quite an old one. It has just one group of sheets of paper folded into a signature (which is the name for sheets of papers folded – books are typically made up of lots of signatures), and then sewn together. The pamphlet originated in the Medieval times, as a way to spread ideas and opinions – often of a religious or political sort – to masses of people, in a time when supreme royalty and the Church didn’t exactly encourage alternate viewpoints.

So far in my class, the books are all blank though. We’ve mostly just been practicing different techniques, and combination of techniques – like the dos-à-dos binding in the picture above, a combination of an accordion folding of the “covers”, with two pamphlets sewn in back to back (which is what the french term also translates to).

Another technique we’ve tried is the tunnel-book. It consists of multiple pages, connected at two sides by a folded accordion-style strip of paper.

These styles are more often used as children’s books, creating three-dimensional spaces to peer into; and for artist’s books. I’m still not entirely comfortable with what an artists book is, but I understand it as using the book-form as a tool for artistic expression. It turns the book-object into an art-object, and it seems like it can range from freeform typographic representation of written words, through more sketch-book like creations, to a deconstruction of the book of object itself.

From wikipedia’s page on artist’s books there are a couple of images I find intriguing as examples of deconstructed books – toying with the viewers notions and perceptions of what a book is.

George Brecht’s WaterYam, Wikipedia

The pages of the book isn’t even bound – they are just loose pages in a box. Is it still a book?

Denise Hawrysio’s Killing III, Victoria & Albert Museum

This work reminds me so much of Meret Oppenheim’s fur covered coffe-cup and saucer, as they both work with fur to take away the traditional functionality of the objects.

Hmm, after that little impromptu art history digression, I have to say – I can’t wait for the rest of the bookbinding classes this semester!

100th post giveaway!

I’ve made it to 100 posts on this here blog, and I’d like to celebrate by giving away some vintage patterns!

I believe these are all from the 60′s – they certainly look like it, don’t they! They fit a 32 – 32 ½” bust, and as far as I can tell, they are all complete. Two of them even look uncut!

I particularly adore the patterns in the plain envelopes, and the color-blocked illustrations. The traces of a previous owner are endearing to me, from a sketch and a scribbled name on the outside, to an addressed label on the Progressive Farmer pattern – sent to Peoria, IL. It’s fun to imagine what sort of life these patterns have led!

So if you’d like to score yourself some free, vintage patterns, all you have to do is leave a comment on this post! The comments will close next Monday, the 14th of February, at midnight CST. The winner will be chosen using a random number generator, and I’ll announce it here in this post on Tuesday, the 15th of February.

If you want to spread the word about this giveaway in whatever fashion you prefer, please do! Leave a separate comment telling me that you’ve done so (and/or a link), and it’ll count as another entry!

This giveaway is open to readers everywhere, so comment away!

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The comments are now closed, and the winner is….

Natasha!

Congratulations Natasha! Email me with your address so I can send the patterns your way!

quick and selfish shirt

I’ve been longing for a quick project lately. It seems like all my crafting time is devoted to things not for myself (like my senior collection), or projects that are intricate and time-consuming (my Bayview Street cardigan). I’ve been spending lots of time on these projects, but nothing is done yet!

Enter a quickly made, and very selfishly made shirt:

I took a couple of hours out of my schedule today (very convenient that I’m on my third snow-day, what with the “snowpocalypse” going on here in Chicago!), and whipped this up. In between all the meticulously made things I’m working on, it was delightful to have something I could finish and wear the same day.

I feel a little bit like Minnie Mouse with my velvet bow-tie bow-belt.

I’ll admit I sacrificed some quality on this shirt…. The fabric is a cotton (voile? lawn? batiste? I don’t know how to tell them apart, so it will remain a mystery) from my stash, and I didn’t wash the fabric before cutting and sewing, which means it’s a little stiff still. The side seams are unfinished (don’t tell anyone!). I simplified a pattern I drafted a while back, and in the process I forgot that I have hips! I drew a straight line down from the armhole, and now the shirt is doing that thing around the pant-waist, pooling because it simply isn’t wide enough to fall any further down! Oh well, I satisfied my need for instant gratification.

Now I’m going back to watching the snow-blowing happening outside my window, while eating some potato-fennel-spring-onion-soup. Very blizzard-appropriate.